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Port is a sweet, fortified wine produced exclusively in the Douro Valley, a region that surrounds the highest-flowing river of the Iberian Peninsula in northern Portugal. Port-style wines are produced in many other countries, notably Australia, USA, and Spain, but they cannot label themselves 'Port' due to European Union Protected Designation of Origin laws.
Port can be made from over 100 grape varieties, though only those grown in the Douro Valley are permitted for true Port. The main varieties are Touriga Franca, Tempranillo (which is here known as Tinta Roriz), Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Cão.
To make Port, grapes are picked, pressed, and fermented just as they are when a still wine is created. But before all the sugar turns into alcohol, a grape-based spirit called aguardente is added. This stops the fermentation and retains some of the residual sugar, creating a sweet, fortified dessert wine with an alcohol level around 20% ABV and roughly 100g/l of residual sugar.
Many Ports are then aged in old oak barrels (often 600-litre ‘pipes’). The length of time they spend in barrel depends on the style of Port being produced, from one year to over 40. This gradual, slow exposure to oxygen creates complexity and adds notes of dried fruit and caramelised nuts, alongside a touch of liquorice.
Ruby Port is the most common style of Port. Basic ruby Port is usually stored in a neutral vessel – such as stainless steel – to preserve the bright, fruity flavours for a maximum of three years. The lack of oxygen exposure also retains its ruby-red hue. It’s usually a blend of wines from multiple years and is made in a consistent ‘house style’. Reserve ruby Ports are higher quality, are often aged in oak, and must be tasted and approved to ensure they are up to the required standard.
Tawny Ports are usually aged in oak barrels to allow for gradual oxidation which gives them their lighter, tawny colour. Microscopic holes in the oak barrels allow small and controlled quantities of oxygen to mix with the wine, giving the Port favourable nutty and caramel flavours. Basic tawny Ports are often not aged for long periods and owe their pale colour to light extraction during fermentation. Reserve tawny Ports are higher quality and must be aged in wood for a minimum of six years. Age-statement tawny Ports are the pinnacle of this style of Port. Often a blend of more than one vintage as well as older and younger wines, these bottlings can be labelled as 10, 20, 30, or 40 years old.
Late-bottled vintage (LBV) Port is a ruby Port made from a single year and aged for between four and six years before it's bottled. After its time in oak, it's usually ready to drink as soon as you've popped the cork. When you choose well, late-bottled vintage Port is fantastic value.
Vintage Port is made only in the very best years. The estate must come to a decision to 'declare' a vintage in the second year after harvest. The wine must then be officially approved by a tasting panel. Vintage Ports are aged for a maximum of three years in large oak barrels before an extensive period of bottle ageing, often for several decades. Unlike LBV Port, vintage Port is intended for cellaring and improves with age. It's not uncommon for the greatest vintage Ports to keep for a century – or more!
As Port is a fortified wine with a higher alcohol content, it will keep for longer than a still wine. Interestingly, part of Port's initial popularity was down to this durability.
But it's ultimately a wine that will be ruined by too much oxygen exposure. As a rule of thumb, it's best to drink ruby and tawny Ports four to six weeks after you've opened them and finish late-bottled vintage Port within one to two weeks. The subtle complexities of vintage Port will dampen after 24 hours – so choose wisely and open it on a very special occasion.
Make sure you store any style of Port in a cool, dark place to slow down oxidation. The fridge is ideal.
Taylor's is one of the oldest, most-respected, and traditional houses, dating back to 1692. In the 1720s, Peter Bearsley, the son of the founder of Taylor's, was reportedly the first person from the English wine trade to travel to the Douro Valley. Today, Taylor's is widely considered the gold standard of aged tawny Port.
Croft is another of the most highly renowned Port houses. Although it's the oldest producer in the Douro Valley that's still active today, beginning in 1588, it continues to innovate. In 2008, it introduced Croft Pink, the world’s first rosé/pink Port.
Fonseca released its first vintage in 1840 and is considered one of the top producers of vintage Port. It was the first house to create a Port entirely from organic grapes. But, for many, it's best known for the Bin No.27, a reserve ruby Port made from a blend of vintages to create a true house style.
Decanting Port, particularly vintage Port, can allow the flavours to 'open up' and reveal some of its more subtle characteristics.
Here’s how to decant Port:
1. Keep the bottle upright for 15 minutes. If it's an older vintage (around 30 years old), make this 30 minutes.
2. Pour the Port directly into the decanter and stop when you see the sediment approach the bottle's neck. Be careful not to pour any of this sediment into the decanter.
3. Once your Port has ‘breathed’ for 20-30 minutes, pour yourself a glass, grab some cheese, and enjoy!
Port is famously enjoyed as an after-dinner tipple, either alone in place of a dessert or with a cheese board – it’s best with a strong blue cheese. However, Port cocktails have surged in popularity recently, especially the classic Port & Tonic, a zesty summer cocktail. It’s a great lower alcohol alternative to a Gin & Tonic.
Try these Port cocktails next time you open a bottle:
50ml white or rosé Port
100ml tonic water
Orange slice or mint sprig, for garnish
45ml tawny Port
15ml rye or bourbon (optional, for strength)
1 dash Angostura bitters
Orange peel, for garnish
50ml ruby port
25ml fresh lemon juice
20ml sugar syrup (1:1)
Egg white – for foam
