There are two broad categories when looking at the different styles of port: those that have been aged in cask and those that are aged in bottle. Cask aged ports are fined and filtered and are ready to drink straight after bottling. Bottle aged ports have
been aged for a short time in cask and then bottled without filtration. It could take anything up to 30 years before they are ready to drink.
In 2002 the official legislation was tighten and the following categories are now permitted:
Ruby – Ruby ports are simple and inexpensive. They are aged in bulk for 2-3 years and then bottled young while they still have their deep ruby colour and fiery character. They typically have uncomplicated berry fruit characters. Pasteurisation
is sometimes used however this can result in a ‘stewed’ character.
Premium Ruby – This style has more colour and depth than ruby port and may sometimes be bottle as a ‘reserve’.
Tawny – Tawny ports have an amber-brown or tawny colour as they have been aged in wood much longer than a ruby port. They are often produced from grapes grown in the Baixo Corgo region where the grapes rarely ripen so they can lack depth
and intensity of fruit. White port or adapting vinification methods can be used to adjust the colour. Bulk tawnys are often left up river rather than being matured in Vila Nova de Gaja, this speeds up the maturation process resulting in a slight brown tinge
at the rim. However it can also result in a lack of freshness and primary fruit characters that are traditionally present in young ports.
Aged Tawny – These wines are left to age in cask for six years or more and have a tawny colour and soft silky character. Most wines that have an indication of age on the bottle are an approximation as the port is a blend of a number of vintages.
The wines used in aged tawnys are very high quality and in other years may be used for vintage ports. The label must state the date of bottling and that the wine has been matured in oak.
Colheita – meaning ‘harvest’ or ‘crop’. These wines are best understood as a tawny port from a single year and are very different to vintage ports. They must also be aged in wood.
Vintage Port – These ports are the most expensive style on the market but account for not more than 1% of total port sales. They spend 2-3 years in oak before being blended and bottled, the subsequent ageing is then down to the consumer.
Only the grapes from the best vineyard, generally from the Cima Corgo, go into these wines. They are picked at optimum ripeness following an outstanding growing season. The IVDP must approve samples and propose quantities in the second year after the harvest
before a vintage can be declared. Whether or not a shipper declares a vintage is largely depended on if there is sufficient quantity and commercial demand. The 1931 harvest was is an example of on outstanding vintage that was undeclared due to commercial reasons.
Roughly speaking, three vintages are declared a decade. These wines are high in phenolics when young and thrown a heavy deposit so always need to be decanted.
Single-quinta vintage – These wines are produced in much the same way as vintage ports and made in good but undeclared years. In declared years these wines would be used to make up the final vintage blend. Unlike vintage port, some single-quinta ports are held
back and only released when they are ready for drinking, this could be up to 10 years after the harvest.
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) – These are wines from a single year that are bottled between the fourth and sixth year after the harvest. Three different styles of LBV port have evolved:
LBV’s bottle without filtration –these wines are made in good, undeclared years and are ready to drink younger than a vintage port.
Envelhecido em Garrafa or ‘bottle matured’ – these are matured in bottle for a minimum of three years before being released. They have much of the same depth as a vintage port.
Filtered LBV’s – These are LBV ports that have been fined and sometimes filtered and cold stabilized. However the process can sometimes strip much of the character out of the wine.
Crusted – These are named after the ‘crust’ or deposit that they throw in the bottle. The wines are a recent creation and are design to appeal to vintage port drinker. Like vintage ports they continue to develop in the bottle and need to
be decanted. They offer a dark full-bodied wine at a lower price than vintage ports. They are exported after three years in bottle.
Garrafeira – Meaning ‘private cellar’ or ‘ reserve’ is more commonly associated with table wines. It was introduced to the IVDP’s port classifications in 2002 when the producer Niepoort created a style. It comes from a single year and is
aged in 5 or 10l glass demi-johns for a minimum of 7 years before being bottled. However most of the wines are aged much longer than the minimum, sometimes up to 40 years. It is then decanted off the sediment and bottled in 750ml bottles. The resulting wines
have a depth of fruit with the delicate silky texture associated with tawny port. There are three dates on the label: harvest date, date of bottling (into demi-johns) and date of decanting (into 750ml bottles).
White port – These are made in much the same way as red ports except that the maceration period is much shorter or non-existent. Most, even those labelled dry or extra dry, have some residual sugar and the intensely sweet wines are labelled
‘Lagrima’ meaning tears. The wines labelled ‘Leve seco’ (light dry) are lower in alcohol, 16.5 – 17% abv rather than the usual 16 -20% abv. Most commercial white ports are aged for 18 months in stainless steel, oak ageing results in a golden colour and a dry,
nutty tang. The best varieties for making white port are considered to be Gouveio, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho.
Moscatel – This is one of over 30 grape varieties used to make white port but is occasionally used in its own. It produces a sweet fortified white wine with aroma characteristics similar to Muscat. It is a speciality of the town of Favaios
on the north bank of the Douro.
Tune back in next time for a look at the different port producers of the Douro!