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The Russian River Valley is a bit of a hidden gem. Cool fogs and a maritime influence provide a long ripening season for thin-skinned grapes. J Vineyards make the most of it. Here winemaker Nicole Hitchcock is producing cool-climate sparkling wine that competes with the best of the Old World. The J Cuvée 20 Brut has an elegant mousse and a complex palate of lemon meringue, apple, and ginger snap. Decanter gave it 96 points.
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