"White rioja used to be a horrid, mustard-yellow, malodorous experience. Not any more. Finally, rioja producers have woken up to realise that the viura grape, plus a dash of malvasia, grown in a good vineyard and treated respectfully with barrel fermentation and judicious but not overly lengthy barrel ageing, can give even white burgundy a run for its money. And that’s just what this elegant, restrained, tangy, cirtusy, oaky white rioja does."