"The Loire's top whites are still not as modish or as expensive, thank goodness, as the Rhône's reds. Sadly, that looks all set to change, so snap up this rich, ripe Les Cascadelles, complete with a long, lemon zest finish. It's a handsome sauvignon blanc and the classic flinty, smoky, herby pouilly-fumé aromas are here in spades. Almost the star white."