"The best wines have a sparkle that's hard to describe, an energy that sets them apart from the mundane. If you have 30 quid to spare - the price of a basic bottle of champers - then you can see what I mean by picking up a bottle of this great riesling. It has a sensation similar to biting into a Cox's apple, but the flavours are more on the mineral and citrus end of the spectrum, and it's delicate but incredibly concentrated."